The World in a Skillet

March 19, 2012
Despite its lackluster cover, the Knipplesâhusband-and-wife foodiesâoffer much more than a rote collection of recipes for greens, cornbread, and fried chicken in their culinary tour of the American South. Instead of treading down that well-worn path, the duo focus on the region's many immigrant restaurateurs, telling their stories and sharing recipes for Salvadoran enchiladas, Bosnian cabbage rolls, Belgian crêpes, Korean pork dumplings, Ugandan plantains in a peanut sauce, and many more. As mouthwatering as the recipes are, the profiles are similarly richâthough some are bittersweet. While many chefs started their cafe, cantina, or bistro to once again enjoy the foods of their native land, others did so to start a new life, like Rey Regalado, a trained engineer in Cuba who escaped and started a successful restaurant in Atlanta. Each subject has a compelling story and the Knipples do a terrific job of telling them. Unfortunately, designer Kimberly Bryant's layout is all over the map, making for a frustrating reading experience. Biographical entries appear without clear headings and run in a single column, while disorganized recipes appear in two columns, sometimes running disjointedly onto multiple pages. The Knipples have crafted an illuminating study of the South's culinary diversity, with sundry recipes to boot; it's unfortunate that a ham-fisted design makes it so hard to enjoy. B&W Photos.